7-Day Campervan Route Through Asturias and Picos de Europa

There are few places in Europe where you can have breakfast in front of a glacial lake at over 1,000 metres and have dinner overlooking the Cantabrian Sea on the same day. Asturias is one of them, and travelling it by van is probably the best way to understand it.

On this route we combine the best of both worlds: the Asturian side of the Picos de Europa (Covadonga, the lakes, the Cares Gorge and Bulnes) and the eastern and central coast, with cliffs, blowholes and picture-postcard fishing villages such as Llanes, Lastres and Cudillero.

Here is the day-by-day itinerary we would repeat ourselves, with approximate distances, where to sleep without hassle and what you need to know before taking your van onto mountain roads.

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Trip at a Glance

• Length: 7 days / 6 nights.
• Total distance: Approx. 300-350 km (not counting the drive to Asturias).
• Best time to go: Late May, June and September. Fewer people than in July-August and long days.
• Driving difficulty: Medium-high in the mountains (narrow roads, tight bends and steep gradients); low on the coast.
• Key rule: You cannot stay overnight inside the Picos de Europa National Park. Sleep outside its boundaries.

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1. Itinerary Summary

Day	Stage	Approx. km	Must-sees
1	Cangas de Onís – Covadonga	15	Roman Bridge, Holy Cave, Basilica
2	Covadonga Lakes	25	Enol, Ercina, lakes loop walk
3	Cangas de Onís – Arenas de Cabrales – Poncebos	40	Cares Trail
4	Poncebos – Bulnes – Llanes	45	Bulnes and arrival on the coast
5	Llanes – Ribadesella	35	Bufones de Pría, Gulpiyuri, Torimbia
6	Ribadesella – Lastres – Tazones	60	Mirador del Fitu, Lastres, cider
7	Tazones – Cudillero	80	Cudillero and farewell

Distances are approximate and depend on where you spend each night.

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2. Days 1 and 2: Cangas de Onís, Covadonga and the Lakes

Day 1: The Gateway to the Picos

Start in Cangas de Onís, the perfect base for the western Picos. Stroll across the Roman Bridge (actually medieval) with its hanging cross, browse the Sunday market and have your first cider in one of its sidrerías.

In the afternoon, head up to Covadonga (about 10 km): the Holy Cave set into the rock and the pink-stone Basilica. Go late in the day to avoid the coach crowds.

Day 2: Lakes Enol and Ercina

The Covadonga Lakes are the park’s great icon, but access comes with small print:

• In high season (Easter, summer and some long weekends) access by private vehicle is restricted for much of the day, and you go up by shuttle bus from park-and-ride car parks in the Cangas de Onís and Covadonga area.
• Dates, times and conditions for large vehicles change every year. Always check the official National Park or Asturias tourism website before you go.

Up top, the lakes loop walk (about 5-6 km, easy) takes you past Enol, Ercina and the old Buferrera mines. Even when the road is open, the shuttle saves you a demanding climb and a lot of trouble parking a camper.

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3. Days 3 and 4: The Cares Gorge and Bulnes

Day 3: The Cares Trail

Drive to Arenas de Cabrales (about 30 km) and from there to Poncebos, the Asturian start of the Cares Trail: a path carved into the rock above the river that leads all the way to Caín (León).

• Distance: about 12 km one way (24 km round trip). You can do just part of it and it is still well worth it.
• Parking: space in Poncebos is very limited. Arrive early, or leave the van in Arenas and get there by taxi or local transport if available.

Back in Arenas, visit a maturing cave for Cabrales cheese. It is strong, but you have to try it.

Day 4: Bulnes and Down to the Sea

Bulnes is a village with no road. You reach it from Poncebos on foot (about 45-75 minutes uphill through the Texu gorge) or by the underground funicular. Small, silent and surrounded by limestone walls: one of the most special moments of the trip.

In the afternoon, head for the coast: from Arenas to Llanes it is about 35-40 km along valley roads.

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4. Days 5, 6 and 7: The Asturian Coast

Day 5: Llanes and Its Hidden Beaches

In the morning, Llanes harbour with the Cubes of Memory painted by Agustín Ibarrola. Then the gems nearby:

• Gulpiyuri Beach: an inland beach with no direct opening to the sea, where the water arrives through the rock.
• Bufones de Pría: blowholes in the cliffs that blast out water and air. Go with a big swell and high tide, and stay away from the edge.
• Torimbia Beach: a perfect shell-shaped cove between green meadows. The access road is narrow; park at the top and walk down.

End the day in Ribadesella, at the mouth of the Sella. If you are into cave art, the Tito Bustillo Cave requires advance booking.

Day 6: El Fitu, Lastres and Tazones

Drive up to the Mirador del Fitu: on clear days you can see the Picos de Europa and the sea at the same time. Then head down to Lastres, perched above the Cantabrian Sea, and if you are travelling with children (or love dinosaurs) the Jurassic Museum of Asturias (MUJA) is very close.

Finish the day in Tazones, the little harbour on the Villaviciosa estuary, the heartland of Asturian cider.

Day 7: Cudillero

One last hop west to Cudillero, with its colourful houses rising like an amphitheatre above the harbour. Do not drive the van into the old town: the streets are extremely narrow. Park at the entrance or near the new port and walk.

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5. Where to Sleep With Your Camper

• Municipal motorhome areas: many coastal and inland municipalities have their own area, often with waste disposal and water. Those on the coast fill up fast in August.
• Campsites: there are plenty in Cangas de Onís, Cabrales, Llanes and Ribadesella. Book in high season.
• Inside the National Park: overnight stays in vehicles are not allowed, and neither is camping. Plan the nights of days 1 to 4 in villages outside its boundaries (Cangas de Onís and Arenas de Cabrales work well as bases).
• On the coast: be careful when parking next to beaches and cliffs. The Coastal Law (Ley de Costas) and local bylaws prohibit parking in many of these spots, especially at night.

If you are unsure what counts as parking and what counts as camping, read our legal guide to overnight stays in Spain.

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6. What to Eat Along the Way

• Fabada asturiana (bean stew) and pote, even in summer.
• Cachopo: two breaded steaks stuffed with ham and cheese. Share it.
• Cheeses: Cabrales, Gamonéu and Afuega’l pitu.
• Natural cider, poured from a height, in any sidrería in Villaviciosa, Cangas or Llanes.
• Arroz con leche (rice pudding) with caramelised sugar on top.

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7. Practical Tips for Vans

1. Mountain roads: the climb to the lakes, the access to Poncebos and many coastal stretches are narrow and winding. If your vehicle is over 6 metres long, check every stretch beforehand.
2. Fuel and shopping: fill up and stock the pantry in Cangas de Onís or Arenas before the mountain days.
3. Weather: fog can hide the lakes in minutes. Check the mountain forecast and always carry a rain jacket.
4. Grey water: only empty it at authorised areas. Asturias works hard to keep campers welcome; let’s help keep it that way.
5. Coverage: it disappears on the Cares Trail and in some valleys. Download offline maps.

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8. Frequently Asked Questions

Can I drive up to the Covadonga Lakes in a camper?

Outside the restriction periods, generally yes, although the road is narrow and demanding. In high season access is by shuttle bus. Always check the current rules before you go.

Can I sleep in my van inside the Picos de Europa?

No. Overnight stays in vehicles and camping are not allowed inside the National Park. Sleep in motorhome areas, campsites or villages outside its boundaries.

What is the best month for this route?

June and September: good weather, long days and fewer people than in August. If you like autumn colours, October is also beautiful, though rainier.

What if I have some days left?

Keep heading west into Galicia and link up with our 5-day campervan route along the Costa da Morte.