48-Hour Campervan Route Through the Black Villages of Guadalajara

Less than two hours from Madrid lies one of the most unique architectural and natural landscapes on the peninsula: the Black Architecture area of Guadalajara.

Here, traditional buildings made of dark slate blend into the oak forests of the Sierra de Ayllón, the karst canyons and the sound of the river. It is the perfect destination for a weekend of total disconnection, with no traffic jams and with quiet, legal places to spend the night.

Here is our detailed itinerary to make the most of 48 unforgettable hours.

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Trip at a Glance

• Recommended length: 2 days / 2 nights (Friday afternoon to Sunday afternoon).
• Total distance: Approx. 160 km from the city of Guadalajara.
• Best time to go: Spring (rivers full of meltwater) and autumn (golden forests and mushroom season).
• Driving difficulty: Medium (narrow, winding mountain roads, but well paved).

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Day 1: The Gateway to the Sierra and the Tamajón Canyon

Morning: From Tamajón to the Enchanted City

Take the CM-1004 road to Tamajón, the gateway to the black villages. Before entering the village, make a must-do stop at the Ciudad Encantada de Tamajón, a karst landscape of eroded limestone that resembles the one in Cuenca, but without fences or crowds. It is ideal for stretching your legs and having a coffee in front of the rock formations.

Afternoon: Campillo de Ranas and Roblelacasa

Continue into the heart of the sierra. In Roblelacasa, park in the car park at the entrance to the village (unauthorised vehicles are not allowed on the narrow slate streets) and hike to the Pozas del Aljibe: a stepped waterfall with two large pools carved into black rock, full of pure water.

• Trail distance: 6.5 km round trip (approx. 2 hours at a relaxed pace).

First Night’s Overnight Stop

• Location: Municipal car park on the way out of Majaelrayo (approximate coordinates: 41.1128° N, 3.3015° W).
• Facilities: Flat, quiet, surrounded by oak trees and with a public water fountain nearby. Be scrupulous about not setting out chairs or awnings, to keep the village welcoming to campervans.

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Day 2: Ocejón Peak and Valverde de los Arroyos

Morning: Valverde de los Arroyos

Get up early to reach Valverde de los Arroyos, unanimously considered one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. Its main square, presided over by the church of San Ildefonso, and its slate buildings inlaid with golden quartz make for a stunning photo at sunrise.

From the village itself, a signposted trail leads to the Chorreras de Despeñalagua: a stepped waterfall more than 120 metres high which, during the thaw, flows with breathtaking force.

Gastronomic Lunch

Do not leave the sierra without trying the area’s hearty traditional food:

• Castilian mountain garlic soup.
• Kid goat roasted over rockrose wood.
• Artisan heather honey from local beekeepers.

Afternoon: The Southernmost Beech Forest

If you do the route in October or November, end the trip by heading up towards Cantalojas to visit the Hayedo de Tejera Negra Nature Park. Remember that in autumn you must book your parking space in advance to protect the forest.

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Practical Tips for Vans

1. Filling up: Fill the tank in Humanes or Jadraque before heading into the sierra, as there are no working petrol stations in the heart of the black villages.
2. Mobile coverage: In some stretches between valleys 4G/5G coverage disappears. Download the offline map in Google Maps or Organic Maps beforehand.
3. Waste management: Do not leave rubbish in small village bins that overflow; always keep a bag inside the van and drop it in the large containers at the entrance to the villages.